Not always a route but always a ROCK

How Rocks Become Routes: What it takes to develop climbing 

Part 1

Climbing's funny. 

It's about as productive as a solar panel in a coal mine and makes as much sense as the hamster dance. But folks, normal folks who spend their entire year toiling away at jobs and lives otherwise perceived as normal and tolerable, dedicate all their free time trying to become better at climbing up something that any tourist knows is easier to get to the top of by walking around the back. But climbers fancy themselves as people who don't just walk around the back. So what does it take for the first person to find the hard way and make it easy for the rest of us to get there. We'll ask a couple of climbers about just that and maybe one day we'll find our own hard way up a piece of rock.

The business of building routes to last

Since we are a climbing gym, we thought it would be best to start with Head Route Setter and local outdoor developer, or redeveloper depending on who you're asking, Dean Dean Privett. Dean walked us through his process of setting, why we don't have grades, and what it is about climbing that keeps Dean doing what he does.

So Dean Dean, How do you start setting a route? Do you draw them out on a piece of paper, is there a computer program that you use, or are they based off of outdoor climbs? 

Every climb I set starts with 3 variables: difficulty, wall angle, and holds. I choose 1 variable and build the route off of that. For example, I'll place a really cool hold on the wall and see how the angle influences the usability of that hold, this helps determine the overall difficulty of the route. I'll then choose holds that will help keep the consistency of that difficulty. The challenge then is to get the climber to climb to and from the first hold I put on the wall. The big sloper in the middle of the wall (video above) was the first hold I placed on the wall, I then had to figure out how to get climbers on to and off of the hold.

 So there's really not a ton of planning?You just throw some holds up and start creating unique and professional routes?

All the movement I create is based off of climbing fundamentals like opposition forces, hold positions, and body tension. So creating climbs is really a culmination of all the climbing experience I've had over the years.

It sounds like route setters need to be climbing a bunch both indoors and outdoors?

Oh yeah, by getting outdoors I get exposed to different movements and the subtly of what it takes to get up climbs and when I climb at different gyms I get to see how other setters are using holds to create movement. So climbing a bunch is a big part of my job.

That's pretty rad, you must know a million ways to use one hold?

Not a million, but understanding that holds are designed with specific uses in mind is a big part of setting routes. For example, using right versus left hand crimps or roof jugs versus slab jugs. Using holds the way they're intended can entice climbers in to specific movement as well as keep them injury free. 

I also take pride in creating aesthetically pleasing routes. So using similar colored holds or series of holds that look as good as the movement feels. 

So you mentioned difficulty, what are your thoughts on grading? 

Personally, I don't like grading. Grades are so subjective. Things like the setters strengths and preferences, how tired the setter is on a given day, climber weight and height, local grading, and so on, all play a roll in grading and can muddy up the entire thing. Instead I seek climbs that have awesome movement or that I think look really amazing. The grade doesn't matter. When I go outdoors, I appreciate the time it takes to figure out different climbs. So difficulty does play a role in what I climb, but I don't use grades as the determining factor in what I chose to work on. It all comes back to aesthetics, I'm interested in challenging movement rather than grades. 

What other things do you think about when it comes to route setting or developing climbs outside?

For me route setting and looking for new boulders is more about having a good time with the people I'm with. Climbing is really fun but actual climbing is such a small amount of the time when you're out "climbing." So having good people to fill the rest of that time is important to me.

Copy that Deano and thanks for the insight in to what it takes to set world class blocks in our little part of the climbing world. 

It's one part plant, one part dudes name, and all parts '80's alternative rock album. I'm talking Joshua Tree!

Rainbow Sherbet Sunrise

Some of us here at the gym lucked in to a trip down to Joshua Tree National Park recently and we feel like it's our responsibility to share what we had, and wish we would've had, on our trip. 

Here's our TOP 10 JTree Necessities:

1. Sun Protection: Seems like a real no brainer. You're probably like "Hey dummy, you're headed to the desert. Of course you need sun protection!" But I'm not talking about the baby oil your Grammy put on in the 70's to get that perfect bronze; or the zinc your great Uncle Sal uses to cover a higher percentage of his body than the Speedo he's been wearing since '87. I'm talking about useful sun protection like long sleeved clothing with UPF, hats that cool you down the harder you try, sunscreen that you don't need to get all over your hands, and the most important thing of them all... chapstick. 

SBRG Red Cap

I rocked my Patagonia Capilene 2 for the 5 days of my trip. It kept me warm during the cool evenings/mornings and the UPF 20 kept my skin from feeling the wrath of both the sun and all the nasty plants/rocks/tourists that poke and prod folks in the desert.

My Mountain Hardware Quasar Running Cap fit under my helmet and the Cool Q ZERO lining kept my melon on ice. The large brim allowed me to climb with out sunglasses and kept me from getting sunburn squint lines.

Coppertone makes a sick spray sunblock that keeps your hands from getting greased up like a broke down trucker in the Texas panhandle. 

Topped off with some fresh mint Chapstick, you're ready for sending.

2. A sturdy hydration station: My trusty MSR 4litre Dromedary has been on many trips over the years and is still water tight despite my best efforts to destroy it. The national park service recommends two gallons of water per day if your climbing in JTree, so one dromedary will do the job if you drink more water than coffee in the morning.

3. Solid Approach Shoes:  Most climbs in JTree are tucked away on top of, underneath of, and/or hidden behind boulders, cacti, and various other obstacles making the footwear you choose to access the "diamonds in the rough" a big decision. I've worn comfortable running shoes but trying to move over boulder fields with a weighted pack and no sticky rubber made my approaches more difficult and taxing. I currently enjoy parking my puppies in 5.10 Guide Tennies which are sticky enough to tackle friction face climbs and beefy enough to shove in to Josh's numerous moderate crack climbs . I switched to the Guide Tennie because of the lower heal compared to the La Sportiva Boulder X, which always seemed to roll my ankle in when I was carrying a heavy load.



4. Tape: Good athletic tape is worth its weight in gold. The rock in JTree is Quartz Monzonite and will cut your hands up quick. The good thing is your goobies are free souvenirs and they'll take weeks to heal.

5. Tough Clothing: So by now it's kind of apparent that the desert is a tough place to get around in. The desert climber needs to regulate their temperature, prevent goobies in tender spots, defend themselves from sharp plants, all the while in clothing that will allow the climber to move over awesome routes.

For top layers I combo my Patagonia Cap 3 with a comfortable synthetic or cotton t shirt. I'll wear the Cap 3 for hiking, scrambling, and routes in the sun and throw on a t shirt after the approach or when I'm cragging.

Coach Mike crushing in the Cap 3, Bronson Combo

For pants I always wear my Prana Bronson's because of the tough canvas finish and spandex combo. Tough enough for knee bars and offwidths but tender enough for high steps and looking sharp.

6. A Good Guide Book: Most of the things on the list so far are about getting to the crag in one piece but if you don't know how to find the routes whats the point. There are numerous guide books to J Tree and all of them seem to be missing something but that's mostly due to the vastness of JTree climbing potential. Joshua Tree Rock Climbs by Robert Miramontes seems to be pretty complete and if you download Mountain Project to your Iphone you'll be pretty close to knowing something. Just be ready to walk around like a tourist in New York City who is gawking at the skyscrapers and narrowly escapes getting hit by a cab.

Sussing the next route out

7. A place to land softly: Whether you are bouldering or trad climbing, a good crash pad can save your ankles on some of the more classic/polished climbs in the desert. Fortunately, there are a ton of fun climbs close to parking that would feel safer with a crash pad underneath them so you don't have to hike a mile with a pad strapped to your back; plus crash pads make great relaxation stations at night around the campfire.

Crash Pads and Poofy's

8. A Poofy Jacket: Hot during the day, cold at night. JTree's climbing season is during the winter and climbers can experience crazy weather out there. High winds, rare rain showers, rarer snow showers, and cold temps can creep in to the park and a good poofy will keep your psych high. I've been rocking a super light, super warm synthetic poof from Mountain Hardware called the Hooded Compressor. It's pretty pricey but has lasted me numerous winter seasons in the cold, wet northeast as well as on long windy winter desert trips.

9. Double's: If you're planning on top roping or lead climbing, Josh eats up traditional gear. Be warned that even the "sport" climbs take traditional pro and most of the top rope anchors are gear anchors. I have doubles from .5 to #3 and feel like I could still use some triples in some sizes. You'll also be psyched to have doubles when leading routes for the option to place the same size twice in splitter cracks or to use for fickle gear anchors. Plus a heavy rack means training weight for the hike in and out.

Standard Gearhead Rack

10. Creature Comforts: For me the last and most important essential thing for spending time in Joshua Tree or anywhere away from my studiage (studio/garage apartment) is creature comforts. That means a comfortable place to lay down, a good cup of coffee, and some tasty vittles. 

I just picked up a sweet Exped SynMat 7 that really allowed me to get a full nights sleep under the stars. I was warm and cozy during the nights and didn't experience any of the normal stiffness that generally comes with sleeping on the ground in the mornings. That means my climbing felt better.

The other life support canister

My Jet Boil fired off warm cups of Starbucks Via's in no time allowing me to be fully caffeinated before my climbing partner had even awaken. I use the Starbucks Via's because of the easy clean up plus my french press exploded all over my poofy jacket and nearly my face, last time I was in JTree. Via's are quick and easy even if they come with a little corporate greed guilt.

Sweet Beard

Nothing beats a warm cup of coffee but delicious, salty, beefy, jerky sure comes close. Every climbing trip needs some form of dehydrated treat and I choose spicy beef jerky 9 times out of 10. Even though the cost of jerky seems to be on the same track as the Bitcoin, it treat myself because after all, climbing is about having fun and feeling good. However, dried bananas, mango, and various other fruits sure do provide extra energy on those late attempts on the proj or to hike out after dark.

Happy Climbing

Well, there you have it. Our Top Ten J Tree Necessities.  Please share what your top ten necessities are and hopefully no one gets stuck out in the desert without something important like a Freshette or a Bosch Hammer Drill or a field guide explaining what plants are safe to eat or not. 

Are you Experienced? or Something New, Something Old, and Something Borrowed

If you squint your eyes, it looks like a Topo of Rattlesnake Canyon (or the universe)

In the late 1800's a young artisan was sent to Rattlesnake Canyon with the task to retrieve only the finest sandstone for the construction of Santa Barbara's grand estates. But like most young people, the boy was more interested in exploring his surroundings rather than fulfilling the needs of his spiritless employers. As he crisscrossed his way up the rambling stream bed, he started to think about the stories he had heard of marauding groups of banditos and the lost 49er's driven to madness by the thrill of striking gold. Deeper and deeper he moved in to the shaded canyon, deeper and deeper grew the feeling that something or someone, was watching him. That there was something going on in the shadows.

You see, this part of the world was and is, wild. Each canyon locks away its own secrets behind a wall of poison oak and manzanita, the perfect place for things that need to be or that want to be hidden away. But every once in a while the youthful need for exploration will reveal its secrets. And that's exactly what a motivated group of SBRG climbers have been up to. Searching the untouched and forgotten parts of Santa Barbara looking for the finest sandstone.

The Canyons

Their newest find may not be so new, some of the local heroes have claimed first ascents on the same boulders, but the crew has breathed some new life in to the area. With a tip of the cap to those first ascensionists, the boys have been creating access to what they're calling The Creamery. How this area got it's name is not my story to tell but I can tell you that the guys are working hard to get this place looking as good as the new McConnell's on State St.

Notice the fine ironwork

With only hand drawn maps available online, going to The Creamery feels like your striking out in to the unknown. And you are. You're responsible for your own safety and how you treat the area. It's not the gym with plush crash pads, holds that won't break, and people cleaning up after you.
There are no pieces of tape telling you where to place your foot.
When you're climbing a route, you're probably one of a handful who've done so. And this is one of the benefits of being a climber. As you sit on the boulder you just topped out smile knowing the thing in the shadows is you or the route your about to climb, and that there is something else going on.

Two of the Handful

Check out these tips about leaving wild places wild. Don't ruin it for the rest of us.
Gym to Crag
Leave No Trace

Don't Believe the Hype: or follow the beat of your own drum

Quest anyone?

Like most climbers, we here at the gym have spent a lot of time and effort traveling to places that most people think only exist as an 800 piece puzzle solution. You know, the types of places Frodo often finds himself elbows deep in a quest. And we go for the same reasons that Ol’ Pete Jackson does: for the views, for the quiet, for the camaraderie, and mostly to see what we’re made of. 

Why else would we spend our nights and weekends wrecking our bodies and minds training for and dreaming about the “BIG” climb? 

And the big climb can be anything. It can be the red one in the back of the bouldering cave, it can be a tendon-popping red point at the Owl Tor, or it can be something that you haven’t found yet but for some reason you still feel the need to try harder, to do more. 

But just like young Frodo, our quest to send the big one, to climb our...our precious...can blind us(i.e. me) from the other joys of being a traveling climber. 

For example, I want to attempt to climb a handful of mountains under 24 hours. This means I have to spend a great deal of time training for these events. On one of my training hikes a friend who was accompanying me threw a wrench in the entire plan. As I related the goal he asked me, “Why would you want to rush through such beautiful places? I mean, you’ve never been there before right? So why rush the experience?”

Well it appears I have a history of this phenomenon. Six years ago I started a project at the New River Gorge that was supposed to be my first 5.12. In order to climb this route I had to drive 6 hours, hike 20 minutes to a place with only 2 other climbs, pray it wasn’t going to be wet or get wet, sucker in a belay partner, and try to climb through the last bolt that always shut me down.

"The Forest"

"The Trees"

The kicker is that in my 6 hour drive I passed 4 amazing climbing spots, I hiked pass 2 better climbing spots or could have hiked to a better location that would be dry and have a better selection of routes, and oh yeah, I wouldn’t have to climb and fail on the same move that, to this day, I have not completed. 

You might ask if the route is awesome and no it’s ok. You may ask if the location is awesome and no there’s nothing particularly spectacular about it. That fact of the matter is I wanted to climb that one route so bad that nothing else would do and I may have limited my experience down at the New.

So what’s the point? 

The point is that we here at the gym hope you keep going for those “BIG” climbs. We also hope that you enjoy the places you’re in, the people you’re with, and are willing to change the plans. 

*I’m currently reevaluating my goals, maybe I’ll climb those mountains in 2 days.

Happy Trails

Santa Barbara Rock Gym

322 State St.

Santa Barbara, CA 93101

805-770-3225

"Helping to foster and preserve Santa Barbara's Climbing Community"

Happy New Year: Now lets get back to normal

Note the Green to Meat color ratio

Happy New Year! 

Now lets get back to normal

If you're like most of us here at the gym, the holiday season means less actual climbing and more talking about climbing while eating delicious, mouth-watering, butter-soaked, sugar-encrusted, calorie-packing, waist-line-expanding, thank-you-grandma-but-I-can't-eat-another-ok-one-more, treats. 

And its hard, I know. 

At most holiday parties they put those mass produced, tired looking vegetable trays right next to the fresh baked, homemade treats table. That's a real no-brainer. It's like winning an all expense paid trip to either Ice Climb in Antarctica or to Sport Climb in Thailand. 

I'll take Thailand.

vs.

But it's over, so lets get back to normal... no, better than normal. 

First things first, we've got to figure out what we're going to get better at. If you don't have a goal, it's like fishing with just a hook. 

Climbing guru Eric Hörst explains in Training for Climbing:The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Performance that goal setting first starts with self-assessment. Once we know where we are in our climbing it's easier to know where we want to go. 

After we know where we want to be, we have to take action and be willing to make course corrections along the way. The taking action and making course corrections part is where we here at SBRG can help out. We offer amazing FREE members clinics on the last Monday of every month and want to offer things you're interested in learning. 

SO ASK US!

If your goal is to boulder harder, climb longer, or onsight radder(!?!) we can help, we want to help. Just ask us to hold a free members clinic on the subject you're interested in.

And one more thing about reaching goals. Every one needs an account-a-bil-a-buddy, someone who will hold you accountable for and ask how those goals are coming. 

Who better than your climbing accoun-a-bil-a-buddies at SBRG!!

Your Account-a-bil-a-buddies

Happy Holidays

Happy Holidays

Twas The Week Before Christmas

T’was the week before Christmas and all through the gym,

All the staff members were excited especially Ryan.

You see all the climbing holds were hung on the walls with great care

By Old Dean Dean, the route setter, who always puts them there.

And Mike, the teams coach, face twas burnt red,

As visions of waves crashed through his head.

And Maggie in her riding boots, and Will in his cap,

Watched as Pat struggled with Dean Dean’s

Sand trap.

When from the back cave came a large clatter,

Young Wyatt ran from the desk to see what’s the matter.

Banez had blown what would be a flash,

And in frustration landed his fist on the wall with a smash!

Cailee proclaimed “It’s frustrating I know!

But climb like Tobin, amazingly slow!”

When, what to my wandering eye should appear,

A younger climber flashing the route that Banez was near.

With focus and strength, the young climber moved quick.

“So young. So strong. It makes me feel sick.”

You see old climbers like Neilski do nothing but complain.

While young climbers, like the ones on the team, would rather train.

Now Campus, now crunches, now two finger pockets

On slopers, on pinches, if its greasy we’ll chalk it.

To the top of your project, to the top of your wall.

Now send away, send away, send away all!

And these directions they hung, they hung in the air

As Maggie 2 played with the dread in her hair.

“Ive seen the kiddies get stronger, stronger that’s true.

I can do the same and get stronger too!”

So Maggie called Brad and Brad called Katrina

to meet at the gym with their mutual friend Alina.

Who texted Brittany to get a hold of Tate

To get a hold of John Baur who’s generally late.

And all of the climbers meet up at the gym,

all thanks to a boss because if not for him

Their would be no place for climbers and no other way

For me to wish all the climbers a happy holiday!

Thanksgiving Challenge

Queen Creek from the ground.

 Another Thanksgiving Day has passed which meant for some climbers here at SBRG a couple extra days off. One of the ironies of being a climber is that days off from work does not necessarily mean days off from doing work. Case in point, I chose to do a grueling eight-hour, over-night drive to the sun scorched desert strip mall known as Tempe, AZ. I somehow convinced my climbing partner, that this was going to be a rad trip.

The Amazing Basalt Pockets of Queens Creek

After two days of recovery from both the drive and stuffing our faces, we received some beta from the local climbing gym about where to pull down on choice roadside choss. They suggested Queen Creek Canyon which is made up of 80 foot, slightly overhanging basalt cliffs that look like my cousins from Louisiana spent the weekend honing in there 20 gauge skills. Awesome little pockets with sneaky jugs hidden throughout. We spent the day getting pumped out of our gourds and relaxing in the desert sun, success. 

The take-away's from the trip to Tempe:

1. Never drive to Tempe again.
2. The climbing community is amazing because of folks willingness to share the things that make them psyched. The world at large can take a few pages out of the climber handbook for being awesome ambassadors for the things they love.
3. Training sports specific endurance is boring yet necessary.

So here are some tips for training climbing endurance.

Run- It's boring, it's not climbing, but it's good for you!

Traversing- Put on the headphones, turn up the hair metal, and stay on the wall as long as you can. Vary the size of both handholds and footholds to add pump. Remember to find those rest positions on the wall.      

*Try to traverse SBRG's bouldering wall for a terminal pump.

Up, Down, Up's- Climb up a hard route, down an easy route, up a hard route... repeat until your workout resembles the route your interested in trying. You can play around with the sequencing of difficult routes in your workout as well as how to rest and recover on the wall. The key is volume, so to stay on the wall.

Happy Trails!!